Humane touch

By Joel Crews

December 2021

Humane
touch

Processors continue to elevate the importance of animal welfare.

Heritage Image Partnership Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo

The relationship between man and beast has biblical roots and has long since garnered the attention of ancient philosophers and theologians.


“It matters not how man behaves to animals because God has subjected all things to man’s power,” Thomas Aquinas wrote.


The perception that animals, especially livestock, were merely a tool to facilitate the needs of people, including performing work and as serving as a source of food, was the subject of noteworthy philosophers.


According to the writings of Aristotle, “Plants exist for the sake of animals and brute beasts for the sake of man.”


Temple Grandin, PhD, a professor of animal science at Colorado State University and an expert on animal welfare and livestock handling designs, sees the relationship between humans and animals differently. The 74-year-old icon recently recalled a trip to Israel years ago when she conducted an informal survey of Hebrew-speaking residents about what they thought man having dominion over fish, birds, cattle and wild animals of the earth meant.


“Just about every one of them said it meant stewardship. That’s a very different meaning,” she said.


“That’s in the Bible,” Grandin said. “There was some concern about animals even back then.” Grandin, an educator, scientist, engineer, author of dozens of books and the subject of an Emmy-award winning movie, has dedicated her long career to improving the lives of animals.

Origins across the pond

The United Kingdom was ahead of the United States with regard to legislation related to humane treatment of livestock in the early 1930s as evidenced by the passage of the Slaughter of Animals Act of 1933, which required mechanical stunning of cows and electrical stunning of pigs.


Meanwhile, in the United States, the growth of the meat industry in the early to middle 20th century was facilitated by the establishment of stockyards in Chicago, Kansas City and New York and the use of feedlots across the country. The expansion of a transportation infrastructure brought exponential growth in livestock production as transportation advances made moving live animals from farms to feedlots to processing plants much more prevalent. The development of refrigerated transportation via railways and on trucks also served to distribute more meat to more states. As demand, production and consumption grew, so too did the awareness of how animals in the food supply chain were treated.


About 25 years after England’s formation of the Humane Slaughter Association (HSA) in 1911, President Dwight D. Eisenhower signed the federal Humane Methods of Slaughter Act into law. Prior to the 1958 Humane Slaughter Act, there were no laws regulating humane slaughter practices. The initial law focused on ensuring that proper methods were used to render cattle insensible before shackling, hoisting, casting or cutting. The law applied only to companies selling meat to the US government and specifically addressed the stunning of cattle, pigs, sheep and other mammals, and did not address the stunning of birds. It also did not apply to religious slaughter, such as halal or Kosher.


The Humane Methods of Slaughter Act of 1978 was passed as a follow-up to the earlier law, addressing cattle handling practices during the slaughtering process. According to the USDA, the intention of the 1978 act was to prevent needless animal suffering, improve meat quality, decrease financial losses, and ensure safe working conditions. Compliance with the Act was ensured by USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service veterinarians overseeing slaughter at beef packing plants in addition to FSIS inspectors on the kill floor. The veterinarian enforced humane slaughter methods throughout the plant by observing methods of slaughter, ensuring corrective action was taken, and reporting inhumane treatment of cattle.

Temple Grandin garnered credibility in the industry after she designed the cattle handling systems for all of Cargill’s plants in North America.

Poultry’s time

The Federal Poultry Inspection Service was established in 1926, which initially provided inspection of live birds at New York area train stations and poultry vending locations.


Vertical integration in the poultry industry, especially during the 1960s, served as an opportunity for producers to utilize new biological and pharmaceutical technologies that would advance broiler welfare for years to come. By the mid ‘70s, the poultry industry had evolved as researchers discovered the important role of nutrition, implemented disease eradication programs and took advantage of genetic-based improvements in the breeding process.


More recently, the National Chicken Council (NCC) developed the NCC Animal Welfare Guidelines and Audit Checklist in 1999, which has been adopted by chicken producers and processors to ensure the humane treatment of chickens. The guidelines are species specific, focusing on broilers and broiler breeders and address every phase of a chicken’s life to make science-based recommendations for the proper treatment of broiler chickens.


“The USDA has requirements regarding humane slaughter under the federal Poultry Products Inspection Act, and the slaughter process is monitored on a continuous basis by FSIS inspectors,” said Ashley Peterson, PhD, senior vice president of scientific and regulatory affairs with the NCC. “Companies may receive a non-compliance report relating to animal welfare and must take corrective action when they are not in compliance with FSIS directives.”


Peterson said the evolution in technology in chicken production has advanced broiler welfare, including housing ventilation systems, automated and sensor-based control of feed, water and temperature controls in production facilities as well as vaccines and nutrition regimens that advance the health of more broilers. She said consumers today want to know food animals are treated well by food companies they hold responsible for animal welfare.

Perception matters

The Humane Methods of Slaughter Act of 1978 signaled a significant tide shift in the industry and a heightened awareness among consumers about the treatment of animals. The perception of animals’ role in society among humans has slowly evolved and the concept of animal rights and animal welfare began to be reconsidered as research about animals’ ability to feel pain, sense fear and possibly possess souls became more widely held.


One of the world’s most-respected experts on animal welfare and animal behavior, Grandin said the first step in the slow process of improving animal handling in the industry was accepting that livestock have senses similar to humans. As a person with autism, Grandin said she and the animals she has dedicated her life to share the traits of being visual thinkers and hyper-sensitive to sensory-based stimulants.
“One of the first things that happened a long time ago was recognizing that animals can feel pain,” Grandin said, pointing out that for many decades, neuroscientists confirmed that animals experience fear.


Grandin was one of the first researchers published in the Journal of Animal Science addressing fear as a psychological stressor experienced by livestock during handling and transport. That groundbreaking research, titled, “Assessment of Stress During Handling and Transport,” was published in 1997.


“I got the ‘fear’ word and some of that neuroscience brain research into the animal science literature, in the veterinary literature, because for a long time you couldn’t say that,” Grandin said.


“It is completely recognized today that animals have fear; that animals have emotional systems.”


Despite the passage of the Humane Methods of Slaughter Act of 1978, animal welfare practices in the meat and poultry industry were sorely lacking. Grandin said even after ‘78, what was considered normal was nothing short of atrocious.


“The ‘80s were about the worst,” she said, and she realized there were opportunities for her to be a change agent. Another emerging force pushing consumers and food companies to change at that time were animal activist groups, including the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) and the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS).


By the time the Humane Methods of Slaughter Act of 1978 was passed, Grandin had earned her master’s degree from Arizona State University, where she was a frequent visitor at plants there, including the Swift plant in Tolleson, Ariz., as well as a Cudahy pork plant near Phoenix. She recalled each company proudly posted signs in their lobbies promoting the use of humane slaughtering practices, realizing the importance of animal welfare well ahead of many companies. In the late 1980s, Grandin moved to Illinois to pursue a doctorate at the University of Illinois.


Her early work focused on improving chute systems. In the 1980s and early ‘90s, Grandin developed the industry’s first-ever center-track restrainer system, based on a concept from researchers at the University of Connecticut. Recognizing it as a more humane option to V-restrainers, Grandin adapted the university’s plywood prototype and modified it for use in slaughter plant environments. Establishing the correct use of the center-track restrainers in the early 1990s proved to be challenging, however, as some plant operators didn’t always use them correctly.


It was frustrating, Grandin said, to realize that some company’s operators assumed throwing money at a problem would automatically fix it.


“There were a lot of these systems out there, but a lot of people just tore them up and wrecked them. They were not managing. Too often people would just buy equipment and think it was automatic management,” she said, which was simply not true.


The same false mindset applied in adapting stunning technology in slaughter plants.


In one of the first slaughter plants she worked in, the Swift plant in Arizona, Grandin worked with engineers to eliminate two large stun boxes that held two cattle at a time, which often triggered stress in the animals. She replaced it with a V-restrainer and a ramp system (which Grandin referred to as the “stairway to heaven”). The center-track restrainer ultimately replaced the V-restrainer, but equipment alone isn’t a solution.


“You’ve got to maintain it,” she said, “and realize equipment evolves. The V-restrainer was a big improvement in high-speed plants over stun boxes. And the center-track restrainer was another improvement.”

Credibility counts

It was also during this period that Grandin was beginning to design curved chute systems to more effectively drive cattle and pigs. And her expertise in animal behavior and engineering was being recognized by prominent industry processors.


“In the late ‘80s and early ‘90s, I laid out handling systems for all the Cargill beef plants in North America,” she said. In the same period, Grandin worked with the American Meat Institute’s (AMI) Janet Riley (who was then the vice president of public affairs) to write the “Recommended Animal Handling Guidelines for Meat Packers,” which was published in 1991 and was the industry’s first voluntary animal welfare guidelines for meat packers. In 1997, Grandin went on to write “Good Management Practices for Animal Handling and Stunning,” which included an objective scoring system based on the guidelines to be used as a tool to measure and manage animal welfare practices at meat plants. The system measured stunning efficacy, insensibility, vocalization, prod use and falling down.


Jerry Karczewski, who was working as an operations manager at Taylor Packing in the 1990s recalled reading an article written by Grandin and published in MEAT+POULTRY about the new auditing system using an objective scoring system. He was intrigued by the guidelines and scoring approach and saw it as an opportunity to address a problem with cattle stunning that was discovered at his plant by a European customer. At the time he didn’t know who Grandin was and with a background in fabrication and focusing on improving the quality of production, he saw this new system as a way to solve a problem in the slaughtering area of the plant, which was not his specialty. But he was intrigued by the audit process and implemented it at his plant. After a few months, prodding, vocalization and slips and falls decreased.


“It improved our scores and it improved our productivity because calm animals and good stunning helped us be more efficient,” Karczewski said. Little did he know, he was responsible for making Taylor the first company to implement Grandin’s system, much to the joy of AMI officials and Grandin. A few months later, Karczewski was part of a panel discussion on animal welfare audits at the first-ever AMI Animal Care and Handling Conference in 1997. Minutes after sharing his experience with the audience, Grandin approached Karczewski wanting to hear more details about the success of the program at Taylor. Grandin and Riley then encouraged and supported him to assume the role of the first chairman of the association’s newly formed Animal Welfare Committee, a position that took his career in a new direction that he said was highlighted by working closely with Grandin for many years.

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McChange

Due in part to pressure from animal activist groups, McDonald’s Corp. hired Grandin in 1999 to train its team of food safety auditors on animal welfare practices using the objective scoring system that was becoming adopted by a growing number of plants. Once training was completed, any plant supplying the burger chain was required to meet or exceed the auditing criteria. Once the auditing system was implemented throughout the McDonald’s system in North America, plants were able to identify and fix problems throughout the McDonald’s network of suppliers.


“When McDonald’s required suppliers to use the audit,” Karczewski said, “that was a world-changing event for the meat industry.”


“In six months, I saw more change than I’ve seen in my whole entire career,” Grandin said.


It didn’t take long for competitors, Wendy’s and Burger King to get on board, following the leader by auditing plants and investing resources in animal welfare.
The buy-in from McDonald’s in 1999 signaled a huge shift for any meat company supplying customers in the QSR segment and beyond.


Erika Voogd was one of the first McDonald’s humane handling officers. Voogd recalled how the plants she was working with when the new animal handling audits began were focused on efficiency and maximizing the number of head processed with little regard for the welfare of the animals.


“This meant that if every cow or pig needed to be electrically prodded to get them to enter a stun box or restrainer, it was common practice,” said Voogd, who has operated Voogd Consulting Inc. in West Chicago since 2003. “Nowadays, it is uncommon for the electric prod to need to be used more than 5% to 10% of the time and many plants have eliminated use almost completely.”


When Grandin’s system was introduced, electric prods could only be used to move pigs or cattle 25% of the time. Efforts to reduce balking, slipping and falling became a priority for suppliers of meat products to the world’s largest QSR chains.


“The plants needed to think smarter and eliminate the slippery floors and distractions that kept animals from moving forward,” Voogd said.


When it came to stunning cattle prior to the new animal welfare auditing system, it was not uncommon for multiple shots to be administered due to an agitated, stressed animal or a poorly maintained captive-bolt stunner.


“This was a typical process; double stunning cattle routinely,” Voogd said.


However, the new guidelines only allowed for a maximum of 5% of double shots when they were introduced in 1999 and then lowered to four out of 100 as of 2018.


“Plants needed to ensure that the stun tool was in excellent condition and strong enough to stun the animal, even as cattle and pigs became heavier and larger over the years. Also, the handling operators needed to develop calm handling methods to assure that the animals were not stressed when presented to the slaughter area for stunning,” Voogd said.


Today it is rare for Voogd to record a double shot during a one-hour audit at the plants she works with throughout North America. She said, at most, it is an occasional occurrence.


“The plants that maintain their equipment, handle their animals calmly and have strong enough stun tools just don’t experience too many issues,” she said.

Erika Voogd (left) was one of McDonald’s first animal welfare officers.

Tools of the trade

Voogd added that technology has played a role in improving animal welfare. Implementing third-party remote video auditing of animal handling practices has been adopted by most of the major meat and poultry companies in the industry.


Stunning technology has also made great strides through the years, including captive-bolt stunners.


“They are stronger in caliber and force and more ergonomically acceptable for the operator. This has made stunning easier and less likely to fail,” Voogd said.


Chuck Bildstein agreed. The humane stunning and equipment specialist with Riverside, Mo.-based Bunzl Processor Division is an authority on the most effective tools to render livestock insensible. He said captive-bolt stunners today are not a one-size-fits-all proposition.


“There are now stunners designed for specific-sized animals,” he said. “Bulls, bison, sows and boars require a more powerful tool for better stunning results.”


Tools to ensure stunners are performing properly are another advancement.


“Stun testers provide plants the opportunity to confirm the stunner equipment is working properly before use. Electronic recordkeeping data collection to track long-term storage and trend information for each stunner is another valuable tool,” Bildstein said.


“The plants are also more aware of the importance of the stunners and how important maintenance and cleaning of the stunner is. The plants have specific SOP documentation on the stunner equipment that provides detail to the maintenance personnel as to the proper steps for maintenance,” he said.


Voogd pointed out that there has been a flurry of large capacity pork plants adopting CO2 stunning. This method allows for group handling and stunning of pigs versus electrically stunning one pig at a time in a single-file chute.


“This technology has dramatically reduced the stress on the individual pig and greatly improved the meat quality,” she said. “Electric prods no longer need to be used and relying on the pig’s natural desire to stay with pen mates helps to assure that they remain calm prior to stunning.”


However, many smaller-volume meat lockers still use electrical wands on pigs to stun them. Improvements in this equipment have also been positive.


“The change in 2010 to head-heart stunning versus head-only stunning greatly improved the likelihood of the pigs remaining insensible until they could be bled,” Voogd said.

The industry standard changed from head-only stunning for pigs to head-heart stunning in 2010.

Keeping solutions simple

For decades, Grandin has preached that most animal welfare problems can be fixed easily and don’t require tens of thousands of dollars in plant renovations, redesigns and makeovers. This was the case at the plants supplying McDonald’s and in most of today’s plants. For example, common issues like slipping and falling animals were fixed by installing non-slip flooring at plants and in loading and unloading areas. Most other issues were resolved by maintaining and repairing facilities as well as training and supervising workers.


At that time, there were 75 plants supplying McDonald’s, recalled Grandin, and only three of them required investments in expensive equipment.


“When it comes to handling and stunning, it’s much better now.” Grandin said.


During the process, it was discovered that one unfortunate reality is that some plants employed livestock handlers who enjoyed hurting and torturing animals.


“It’s not nice to say, but it was something we learned,” Grandin said.


One of the causes of animal welfare problems in the past decade was a flurry of mobility issues in cattle. Causes ranged from the use of feed additives (beta agonists) during warm weather to genetic complications causing leg conformation problems in cattle and hogs.


“A calm person makes a good animal handler,” Grandin said. “Good handling takes a lot of walking due to the need to bringing up small groups of animals at a time.


“Handling is not a flunky job; it’s a really important job.”

The fall and rise of Russian wheat

By Arvin Donley

December 2021

The fall and rise of
Russian wheat

Once highly dependent on imports, Russia has become the world’s top wheat exporter.

©scherbikovav – stock.adobe.com

Wheat is not only sown into Russia’s rich, black soil, but also woven into the cultural fabric of the agricultural powerhouse that straddles Eastern Europe and Western Asia. The image of wheat stocks can be found on Russian and Soviet Union-era flags, monuments, and artwork, reflecting the food grain’s importance as a national symbol of abundance and prosperity.

Recognized throughout history as a leading wheat producer, it wasn’t until recently that Russia began flooding the international market with significant volumes of the grain. In fact, throughout the latter part of the 20th century, Russia depended heavily on wheat imports to feed its people and its burgeoning livestock industry.

How did Russia go from being largely self-sufficient in wheat during the first 70 years of the 20th century to being among the world leaders in imports the century’s last three decades, only to dramatically reverse course and become the world’s leading wheat exporter during the last five years?

The fall and rise of the Russian wheat industry is a complicated story, influenced by international politics, domestic political and economic ideology, the country’s notorious volatile weather, and the ups and downs of the domestic livestock industry.

William Liefert, formerly of the US Department of Agriculture’s Economic Research Service where he specialized in Russian and Former Soviet Union agriculture, describes the “black soil region” in southern Russia as being among the best agricultural land in the world.

“That land during the times in modern history when there has been sufficient peace has naturally been a surplus grain-producing region and exporter, as it is now,” said Liefert, noting that the 19th century Russian empire was a major grain exporter.

In the following century, the czarist regime’s collapse in 1917 led to the Bolsheviks’ rise to power in Russia and the formation of the Soviet Union. After consolidating authority in the late 1920s, Josef Stalin pushed for mass industrialization, which included agricultural collectivism, as part of the new Soviet Communist vision.

“There was suddenly complete state control of the economy,” Liefert told World Grain. “This led to mayhem in agriculture. About half of all livestock in the country was destroyed because the peasants decided they weren’t just going to hand it over to the government. It led to a horrible famine that centered on Ukraine, which was largely a man-made policy event. It did not have to happen. It’s a subject of historical debate that anywhere from 4 million to 10 million people died in that famine.”

Eventually, the Soviet Union became largely self-sufficient in grain, particularly after World War II through the 1960s. Although yields were below average compared to other leading wheat-producing nations, the Soviet Union was able to remain self-sufficient due to the enormous amount of land that was dedicated to grain production.

But in a Soviet agricultural system described as having “no strength, only weaknesses” by current Russian Grain Union President Arkadiy Zlochevskiy, farmers were “demotivated to improve production assets and make technological improvements” during that era.

“With the lack of motivation and in the context of the (planned) economy, even the program of virgin land development, which was called to the save the country’s food safety, didn’t help,” Zlochevskiy told World Grain.

Dimitry Rylko, general director of the Moscow, Russia-based Institute for Agricultural Market Studies (IKAR), said the strategic shift toward increasing imports became necessary.

“The Soviet system could not afford any longer the food shortages in normal, peaceful times,” Rylko told World Grain. “On the other hand, they could not keep up with growing consumer demand against the background of fixed wholesale and consumer prices and, basically, state-owned agriculture. The only way of solving this fundamental contradiction was to enter the import market.

The Great Grain Robbery

With domestic grain production trending downward and severe drought conditions in the early 1970s hindering output even further,the Soviet Union quietly changed course from its self-sufficiency strategy by brokering a secret deal to import grain from its arch-political enemy, the United States.

In July 1973, the Soviet Union purchased 10 million tonnes of mainly wheat and corn from the United States at subsidized prices, which caused global grain prices to soar. Soviet negotiators worked out a deal to buy the grain on credit but quickly exceeded their credit limit. American negotiators did not realize that both the Soviets and the world grain market had suffered shortfalls, and thus subsidized the purchase, leading it to be dubbed the “Great Grain Robbery.” The strategy backfired and intensified the crisis as global food prices rose at least 30% and global grain stockpiles were decimated.

“The farmers were happy, but the rest of the world was wondering what the heck was going on,” Liefert said. “What people may not know is the Great Grain Robbery coincided with a change in Russian policy regarding the expansion of the livestock sector.”

Liefert said the motivation for the sudden influx of imported grain wasn’t only to ensure low food prices and food security for the Russian people.

“Beginning in 1970, the Soviet regime decided to expand the livestock sector,” Liefert said. “They saw increasing meat and dairy production as the most direct way to increase the standard of living. It was actually kind of a benevolent policy. They began offering huge subsidies to the agricultural economy, mostly to the livestock sector. They succeeded in increasing the amount of meat and dairy products, but it came at a huge cost. Huge resources were thrown at that sector.”

From 1970 to 1990, the Soviet Union was a large importer of not only grain but soybeans and soybean meal as it attempted to bolster its livestock industry. However, when the Soviet Union dissolved in 1991, and Russia returned to being a singular country transitioning from a planned to more of a market-oriented economy, the government could no longer afford the subsidies, so they were eliminated.

“Without those subsidies, input prices rose significantly relative to output prices,” Liefert recalled. “Farmers could no longer afford all those inputs, and with the decline in inputs, outputs also fell considerably.”

He noted that Russia’s annual grain production fell from 95 million tonnes to 63 million tonnes during that 10-year period. But it wasn’t just the unfavorable grain prices versus high input costs that led to the slump in grain output. The Russian livestock sector contracted by about half in the 1990s, with annual meat production falling from 7.2 million tonnes in 1991 to 3.6 million tonnes per year in the final four years of the 20th century, Liefert said.

“The contraction of the livestock sector meant they didn’t have to import all that feed grain or produce so much domestically,” he said.

Russia’s two biggest advantages in wheat production

When it comes to wheat production, Russia has several advantages over many of its competitors.

“One of the real advantages is an abundance of nutrients in the soil, which is enormous,” said Russian Grain Union President Arkadiy Zlochevskiy. “We have the largest reserves of black earth – the most fertile type of soil. We have territories like the Kulunda steppe in Altai Territory, with potassium reserves large enough for 1,000 years. This is not taking into account that this reserve is being replenished each year. This means that for us, nutrients appear to be cheaper than for our competitors.”

A second advantage is cheap agricultural labor, which drives down production costs, Zlochevskiy said.

But the labor cost advantage is a bit of a double-edged sword, he concedes.

“The government targets to raise the incomes in rural settlements from the current 53% to 57% of the city dwellers’ incomes,” Zlochevskiy said. “This is not much, especially if we compare these figures with other countries. This (low incomes in Russian rural areas) is not good, but it is one of the factors of our competitiveness.”

He said there is a perception that Russian agriculture has a third advantage — access to large amounts of freshwater — but there are logistical problems.

“Indeed, we have large reserves of freshwater, but it is mainly concentrated in Baikal,” he said. “In order to bring it to a field, you’d waste time, and transportation costs would be tremendous.”

A golden era of Russian agriculture

After a difficult decade of transitioning to a more market-oriented economy, Russian agriculture began to reap the benefits of the new system and the shift from grain importer to exporter began.

“The main factor, which had a number of spinoffs, was privatization of the Russian economy and the shift to free market prices,” said Rylko, who also noted that land privatization, significant investment in port infrastructure, and the emergence of agro-holdings, or large-scale farming operations, helped Russia become a major grain exporter.

And once again, Russia’s decision in the early 2000s to strive for self-sufficiency in meat production benefited the grain industry as demand for feed grains increased sharply.

“The main goal of the Russian agricultural policy ever since the 1990s has been to revive the livestock sector and make the country as self-sufficient as possible in agriculture,” Liefert said. “A lot of that has been achieved. At one point Russia was importing over 3 million tonnes of meat per year. It is now importing about one-tenth of that.”

To supply the growing livestock sector, feed its 144 million people and earn the designation as the world’s top wheat exporter, Russia had to dramatically increase wheat output, which at the turn of the century was around 30 million tonnes per year. Mainly through increased yields, Russia saw its wheat production double to 60 million tonnes in 2010 and to a record 85 million tonnes in 2020.

“When you look at the last two decades, Russia has shown such impressive growth,” Stefan Vogel, global sector strategist for grain and oilseeds at Rabobank, told World Grain. “You look at the acreage changes; they’ve gone up 30% to 50% for many of the grain crops such as wheat and sunflower seed. Production has grown three times more than it was. Wheat production nowadays is 150% above where it was 20 years ago. It’s been impressive to see how much this country was able to scale up production.”

But bolstering production was just part of the equation to becoming a leading wheat exporter. Equally important was investing heavily in infrastructure improvements at the Port of Novorossyisk and other Russian port terminals.

“As soon as they started exporting wheat in large volumes, they realized they had great potential in this area but there were bottlenecks at the ports,” Liefert said. “Before they were importing grain, now they’re exporting it, and to export you need a lot more storage capacity at the ports.”

Mostly private investors have poured millions of dollars into port infrastructure improvements, including installing newer, larger grain storage bins, and dredging the sea floor to enable bigger ships to enter the port for loading.

The port expansions, which began in the early 2000s, have accelerated in recent years. In June, United Grain Co., Demetra-Holding and Federal State Unitary Enterprise Rosmorport reached agreement to develop a new pier at the Port of Novorossyisk to enhance the transshipment of grain cargo. It will double the total transshipment capacity at the site to about 25 million tonnes from 13.6 million tonnes, while increasing capacity of one-time storage to 870,000 tonnes from 370,000 tonnes.

The first year of the 21st century, Russia exported a modest 696,000 tonnes of wheat. Ten years later, having made tremendous inroads into Asian, Middle East and African markets, Russia increased that total to 18.5 million tonnes. By 2018, Russia more than doubled that total when it exported a jaw-dropping 41.4 million tonnes of wheat, which still stands as a record. Since then, the country has exported around 35 million tonnes per year.

To a certain degree, Russia’s push to become the world’s leading wheat exporter may have been precipitated by a lengthy price decline of oil and natural gas, which for many years have been Russia’s most lucrative export commodities. Despite the current spike in oil prices, many countries are vowing to switch to green alternatives, putting the long-term future of fossil fuels in doubt.

Perhaps that is part of what inspired Russia’s push for more revenue from agricultural exports. In 2012, Russian President Vladimir Putin boldly stated that Russia would double its grain exports by 2020.

With that goal met, the question is where will Russia’s grain industry go from here? Will it remain a powerhouse wheat exporter? Will it become a bigger producer and exporter of other grains? Will some unforeseen issue such as climate change or geopolitical tensions negatively impact its role as wheat supplier to the world market?

At the turn of the 21st century, Russia produced around 30 million tonnes of wheat per year. The country doubled that total by 2010 and in 2020 set a production record of 85 million tonnes.

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Opportunities and challenges ahead

When looking to the future, one must always consider that while Russia has become a more market-oriented economy, it still operates under more government control than its wheat-exporting competitors such as the United States, Canada and Australia.

Since June 2021, Russia has placed a floating tax on wheat exports, reportedly to tame food inflation, which has gripped the country, as well as most of the world, in recent months. Historically, Russia has been quick to impose export quotas or even bans during times of drought or domestic food inflation. In 2010, after drought devastated the country’s wheat crop, it imposed an outright export ban, a move that caused global wheat futures to spike and may have indirectly contributed to the Arab Spring uprisings in the Middle East.

“I believe it is best to let the free market decide and then the producers and supply chain can work it out,” Vogel said. “But given how tied wheat prices are to bread prices, I think what Russia is doing right now is a better way than banning exports completely.”

Zlochevskiy said the Russian government’s interference with grain trade does a disservice to its farmers.

“The government doesn’t understand that we struggle for the sales market, and they constantly hamper farmers’ motivation,” he said. “We saw this back in 2014 when we had begun supplying durum wheat to the European Union. And at that moment, the government introduced a floating export duty, which primarily hurt the most expensive product items. All products with a price above ($180) were subjected to a 50% duty. This decision killed our exports of durum wheat. There is no incentive for farmers to grow it as long as no sales markets are available, so farmers stopped investing in this segment.”

If not durum wheat, is there potential for Russian farmers to become larger producers of other high-value grains and oilseeds? Opinions are divided on the subject.

“By all means this is going to happen,” Zlochevskiy said. “Motivation to grow wheat is going down, while to grow soybeans, to the contrary, is rising. The demand for corn is stable, primarily because livestock producers are yet to realize its potential as a feedstuff. However, the time will come when the demand for corn on the domestic market will rise.”

While Vogel doesn’t foresee a significant increase in Russian soybean production, he does see potential for greater production of another oilseed.

“I think the crop to watch besides wheat is rapeseed,” he said. “There is potential to see that rising, particularly in times when you have Canada facing a drought, prices for canola being high, and Europeans still scrambling for imports. I assume the Russian farmer will look at that opportunity and invest more on the rapeseed side.”

While Russia has succeeded in modernizing its grain infrastructure at port terminals, the country still lags well behind its biggest grain export competitors with mostly outdated inland grain infrastructure.

Vogel said Russian rail and waterway grain transportation systems are in need of a significant upgrade.

“Given that rail is still largely state-owned, there may be issues with getting enough rail cars and getting a competitive freight rate,” Vogel said. “When you compare the big grain companies in other parts of the world – ADM, Bunge, and Cargill in the US, for instance, have developed a nice supply chain from the inland elevator all the way though rail transport and river transport. It’s the same more or less in Brazil. I don’t see that happening in Russia where the international companies haven’t developed as much strength as in other exporting regions.”

In terms of increasing wheat production, there are two paths to consider: Expand the amount of planted area or improve the yields on the land that is already in production.

The problem with expanding wheat acreage is that most of the land that could be brought into production is marginal at best, Rylko said.

“We have truly vast land reserves, but it wouldn’t make much economic sense in involving this land in grain production,” Rylko said. “We need first to improve effeciency of already existing operations, in particular, to boost already ongoing digitalization of our farming. We should not stand on the path of virgin land development. This is expensive and promises poor returns.”

He is more optimistic regarding the potential for crop yield improvement.

“We still have big reserves regarding fertilizer and pesticide application,” Rylko said. “Moreover, one can see quite big intra-regional differences as the best farmsteads in Russia are using more inputs and achieving higher (yields) than average farms.”

The country’s farmers also have been slow to adopt no-tillage farming techniques that reduce soil erosion, increase soil biological activity and increase soil organic matter, all of which can lead to economic gains for farmers over time.

“Such a big shift requires a combination of big investments, big patience and big knowledge,” Rylko said. “So, despite the tremendous success, there is still a lot to do on the already utilized lands.”

Wheat quality is another area with room for improvement, although Rylko noted that progress was being made.

“I remember just a few years ago, in the middle 2010s, that Russian exporters dreamed of shifting from the 11.5% to 12.5% protein category,” he said.

“For at least the last four seasons in a row this dream is the reality: 12.5% has become a predominant export quality. Amazingly, this season we haven’t seen any vessel shipped by the Black Sea terminals with protein below 12.5%.”

The image of wheat stocks can be found on Russian and Soviet Union-era flags, monuments, and artwork, reflecting the food grain’s importance as a national symbol of abundance and prosperity.

Russia no stranger to geopolitical issues impacting trade

In a world that is divided politically by democratic and autocratic governments, it’s not unusual to see agricultural trade disputes between countries with differing philosophies. This has especially been the case with Russia over the years.

In 1980, the United States, which at the time was a major supplier of wheat to the Soviet Union, halted shipments to Russia in protest of Russia’s invasion of Afghanistan. In 2014, Russia, in a much better position from a grain reserves standpoint, banned high-value agricultural imports from the United States and Western European countries. The ban was Russia’s response to geopolitical tension with the West stemming from the country’s conflict with Ukraine.

Currently, political tensions between the United States and China have resulted in some restriction of trade between the two countries. Stefan Vogel, global sector strategist for grain and oilseeds at Rabobank, said it’s possible that Russia, which is more politically aligned with China, could see its trade flows altered due to the China-US conflict.

“There was a study earlier this year about what would happen if the trade wars between the US and China worsen significantly to the point where the countries barely traded with each other,” Vogel said. “It could be a situation where you start to see blocs of trade with the US, Australia and Europe in one bloc and Russia and China forming a natural bloc on the other side. In that case you could see a future where China would import more wheat from Russia for feed and replace some corn.

“It is a situation where if there is further deterioration of the situation, it could also involve countries sympathizing with either the US or China, and the agricultural sector could be heavily impacted by such moves. China relies heavily on soy imports but that’s not something Russia can easily supply.”

From feed to food

By Jennifer Semple

December 2021

From feed
to food

A look at nearly a century of Nestlé Purina meeting the nutritional needs of pets as the industry has evolved.

Photos provided by Purina

According to a few sources including the Pet Food Institute and the European Pet Food Industry Federation (FEDIAF), the first commercially prepared pet food was a dog biscuit product introduced in England by businessman James Spratt around 1860. Spratt’s first formula is reported to have included a mix of wheat meals, vegetables, beetroot and beef blood.


As the Industrial Revolution helped the economy grow and a middle class emerged in the late 1800s and early 1900s, domesticated dogs and cats were elevated from working animals to companion status and were gradually welcomed into our homes.


Food for pets began being regulated in the United States separately from animal feed when the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), an organization of US state and federal regulatory officials, first included language specifically for pet food in their model bills in 1917.


AAFCO established a definition for “complete and balanced” pet food 52 years later in 1969. This was probably largely due to a better understanding of canine and feline nutritional needs made possible by the research conducted by early 20th century pet food companies such as Purina.


In 1926, Purina established a research farm in Gray Summit, Mo. to study animal nutrition. The farm included the first-ever canine nutrition center. Purina launched their first dog food, Purina Dog Chow, the same year.


“Since its inception, Purina has been driven to use science to better understand how to improve the health and wellbeing of pets,” said Susan Anderson-Bauer, Purina archivist, St. Louis, Mo. “Over the years, Purina scientists, nutritionists and veterinarians have made groundbreaking discoveries to help dogs and cats live longer, healthier lives.”


Before commercial pet food was available, pets typically ate table scraps or whatever they could forage on their own. Many pets were malnourished, and both
disease and short life spans were common.


In recipes and marketing material dating back to the early 1930s, the key ingredients highlighted in early iterations of Dog Chow included meat, wheat germ meal, buttermilk, cod liver oil, barley malt, molasses, oat cereal, corn cereal and wheat bran. Dog Chow was initially produced in small dry squares referred to as ‘checkers.’ Over the years, as more knowledge was gained and ingredient access improved, the recipe continued to evolve.


Not only has Dog Chow endured for 95 years and been joined by many other successful Purina brands, the company has continued to innovate and evolve the original brand. In the 1950s, Dog Chow was the first commercial pet food produced using extrusion technology to form kibble shapes which replaced the ‘checkers’ squares. This technique was developed at Purina and provides an expanded dry kibble with superior nutrition, digestibility and palatability. Today, extrusion is an industry standard practice.


“Beyond extrusion, Purina continues to develop proprietary machinery and techniques in-house to bring innovation to life,” Anderson-Bauer said. “In the early 1980s, Purina developed a special manufacturing process that precooked the meat prior to sending it through the extruder. This allowed the company to offer pet food with meat as the dominant ingredient.”


In 1965, Purina was the first to create a puppy food specially formulated with the additional protein and nutrients puppies need to develop and grow durng the critical first year of life. And as recently as 2018 and 2019, Purina launched new formulas under this brand — Dog Chow Complete Adult With Real Beef providing additional protein options in the dry dog food line, and the brand entered the fastest growing category in pet food with the addition of Dog Chow Wet High Protein made with real meat and 40 grams of protein per can.

Left: Science and R&D have been at the foundation of Purina’s pet care business from an early stage. Right: Purina expanded the use of extrusion technology to cat diets in 1962 when the company launched Purina Cat Chow.
1860

First commercially prepared pet food

1917

Pet food included in AAFCO model bills

1926

Dog Chow launches, first Purina animal research facility

1950

Purina begins developing extrusion technology

1962

Purina Cat Chow launches, first extruded cat food

1965

Purina launches, first pet food formulated for puppies

1969

AAFCO defines “complete and balanced”

1976

Purina Fit & Trim launches, first OTC weight loss diet for dogs

1990

Purina therapeutic Veterinary Diets launches

1991

Purina launches first cat food proven to promote urinary tract health

1999

Purina establishes global program to study canine genome

2006

Probiotic supplement Purina FortiFlora launches

2010

First Purina ONE formula to improve canine cognition in older dogs

2015

First Purina ONE formula to improve canine cognition in older dogs

2016

Pro Plan Prime Plus for senior cats launches

2020

Pro Plan LiveClear launches

For nearly a century, Purina has pioneered both pet nutrition and technological advancements for producing pet diets.

A foundation in research

“When Donald Danforth, the son of Purina’s founder, William H. Danforth, joined the company in 1920, he had a strong appreciation for science and advocated for expansion of our R&D capabilities” Anderson-Bauer said. “It was Donald who championed the idea of the experimental farm and research kennel in Gray Summit.”


It’s notable that while Purina is known for pet nutrition, there are many pet experts on staff dedicated to scientific understanding of pet behavior and pet welfare.


“Purina takes a holistic approach to pet health with nutrition being a key foundational component,” Anderson-Bauer explained. “In total, the company has more than 500 Purina scientists, veterinarians, and pet care experts on staff to ensure our commitment to unsurpassed quality and nutrition.”


The extensive resources Purina has devoted to research have led to several ground-breaking studies and nutritional breakthroughs over the decades that Purina reports have been scientifically proven to improve the quality of life for pets and, in some cases, even extend their lives. These include a 14-year life-span study in dogs, which proved the importance of keeping dogs in lean body condition from puppyhood and throughout their lives. This life-span study led to adjustments in
recommended feeding amounts.


“Purina was the first to use that knowledge to recommend feeding less of the food than previously recommended,” Anderson-Bauer said.


Additionally, in 1999, Purina established the Canine Reference Family DNA Distribution Center, which worked globally with institutions that were studying the canine genome. This has led to major, subsequent innovations based on new understandings of genomics.


More recently, Purina conducted research about protecting brain health in aging dogs, as well as a nine-year cat study which demonstrated that feeding a specific blend of nutrients can extend the healthy lives of cats.


Another recent discovery by Purina, following 10 years of research, found that a cat diet formulated with an egg ingredient containing antibodies to Fel d1 can mitigate a major cat allergen causing adverse reactions in humans.

Meeting human expectations

People have increasingly shifted to seeing their pet as an important member of the family. This has led to many pet owners projecting their own food preferences,
expectations and philosophies on their pet’s food.


“Purina has consistently been able to provide complete and balanced nutritional options for dogs and cats through the years that meet the nutritional needs of the pet, first and foremost, and meet pet owner expectations,” Anderson-Bauer said.


Purina delivered Fit & Trim, the first over-the-counter weight loss diet for dogs, for the 1976 fitness-focused consumer. As pet owners sought premium or gourmet products in the 1980s, Purina launched Fancy Feast gourmet, Pro Plan with real meat as the number one ingredient, and Purina ONE, the first super premium pet food sold in the grocery channel. With a broad product portfolio sold throughout the globe, Purina continues to meet the needs of today’s pet owners looking for attributes important to them including natural, plain and simple ingredients sourced sustainably.


“For more than 90 years, Purina has been guided by our purpose of enriching the lives of pets and the people who love them,” Anderson-Bauer said.


A company must do many things correctly to remain a leader for nearly a century. For Purina, the longevity and success likely comes as a result of a true passion and love of pets, a foundation in science, dedication to innovation and a commitment to quality and safety.

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Setting the Table

By Monica Watrous

August 17, 2021

Setting the
table

The enduring legacies of George Hormel, W.K. Kellogg and Milton Hershey

W.K. Kellogg, Milton S. Hershey and George A. Hormel were among the visionary entrepreneurs who more than a century ago paved the way for how the world eats today.


The founding fathers of the packaged food industry demonstrated ingenuity and resilience in the face of failed businesses and factory fires, worker strikes and world wars, a global pandemic and the Great Depression.


Today, the companies that bear their names honor the founders’ legacies while elevating a new generation of food entrepreneurs to ensure the next century of success.

A cereal entrepreneur

By the late 1800s, former broom salesman William Keith Kellogg had joined his older brother, renowned physician Dr. John Harvey Kellogg, to run a health spa in Battle Creek, Mich. The younger Kellogg handled bookkeeping and other responsibilities at the Battle Creek Sanitarium, where patients ate a vegetarian diet that included an early form of unsweetened granola based on wheat and oats. (A guest there named Charles W. Post was accused of swiping the recipe that would inspire the launch of Grape Nuts cereal).


An experiment with the grain mash led to the accidental invention of flaked cereal. The discovery would lead to a bitter brother rivalry, including a legal dispute over naming rights, but more significantly, it would revolutionize the traditionally meat-based morning meal.


Soon after W.K. Kellogg founded his boxed cereal business in 1906, dozens of competitors flocked to Battle Creek, eager to capitalize on this new convenient and wholesome breakfast concept. Mr. Kellogg distinguished his offering by adding his signature to each package of Kellogg’s Corn Flakes. A savvy businessman, Mr. Kellogg continually improved the product line, packaging technology and marketing strategy to meet changing consumer tastes. He later established the W.K. Kellogg Foundation to promote the health and well-being of children.
“W.K. Kellogg was an early conservationist, a leading philanthropist and the original well-being visionary,” said Kris Bahner, spokesperson for Kellogg Co. “His values live on today through our K Values — they shape our Kellogg culture and guide the way we run our business. They help to define what makes our company and our people special and how we all play a unique and critical part of the ongoing success of our business.”


Today, Kellogg Co. invests in emerging businesses with innovative product concepts through its venture fund, eighteen94 capital. Kellogg also is a founding sponsor of The Hatchery, a food business incubator in Chicago. The company supports creativity at all levels of the organization through innovation competitions, including one held recently for its interns.


“That innovative and entrepreneurial spirit that shaped an entire industry lives on today — we like to say innovation breathes fire into our vision and purpose as a company, and we continue to innovate as we head into the next 115 years,” Ms. Bahner said.

W.K. Kellogg

A chocolate empire

Prior to popularizing milk chocolate in America, Milton S. Hershey encountered a series of setbacks. His first two businesses had failed. Perfecting the formulation for his signature product followed months of trial and error. Driven by persistence and vision, Mr. Hershey developed a new process for creating chocolate, tapping local dairy farms for fresh milk, and ultimately transforming an elite treat into an everyday staple for the masses.


“We steward Mr. Hershey’s legacy of innovation and entrepreneurship by seeking to add more beloved snacking brands to our portfolio,” said Ryan O’Hara, director of strategy at The Hershey Co. “We continually scan the market for high-growth, high-potential brands like Skinny Pop, and more recently Lily’s, to extend our moments of goodness with new consumers and new occasions.


“We also invest in startup companies like Blue Stripe and Quinn that are uniquely innovating in snacking, and related capabilities like Bonumose, that are developing breakthrough technologies to meet current and future consumer needs.”


Mr. Hershey’s achievements extend beyond the company and surrounding community he built in his name. He was a celebrated philanthropist who notably coined the term “commerce with compassion,” viewing business as a force for good. In 1909, he and his wife, Catherine, founded what would become the Milton Hershey School to provide education and opportunity for orphaned boys. He later transferred the majority of his wealth to the Milton Hershey School Trust fund. In 1935, he established the M.S. Hershey Foundation, a non-profit dedicated to cultural and educational enrichment.


“Purpose-driven companies are now becoming more commonplace, but Milton Hershey started it all over 100 years ago when it wasn’t even popular or on anyone’s radar,” said Brian Lange, a Hershey plant manager.

Milton Hershey

A protein pioneer

“Originate, don’t imitate,” a key commandment of George A. Hormel’s business, guides innovation efforts today. The challenge is imprinted on a wall of the Hormel Foods Corp. headquarters in Austin, Minn.


With previous meatpacking experience, Mr. Hormel established Geo. A. Hormel & Co. in 1891, setting up pork processing operations inside an abandoned creamery. He also opened the Hormel Provision Market to sell his products. Mr. Hormel, and later his son Jay C. Hormel, are credited for pioneering numerous innovations in food production and packaging that catapulted the company’s growth in the years that followed. The younger Hormel oversaw the introduction of several products, including Dinty Moore beef stew, Hormel chili and Spam luncheon meat.


“George Hormel’s eagerness to find and incorporate new approaches to the business continues today,” said a spokesperson for Hormel Foods Corp. “The company’s innovation and corporate development teams scour the globe for game-changing developments at all levels: from research labs and startup pitch competitions to major food shows. When acquiring companies, Hormel takes great care to respect each new team’s culture and retain what made it great in the first place. Applegate, Justin’s, Columbus Meats and Planters are some prime examples of the success of this approach.”


In 1941, George and Jay Hormel established The Hormel Foundation, which ranks fourth in annual charitable giving among Minnesota’s largest community and public foundations. The following year saw the opening of the Hormel Institute, today a cancer research facility.


The actions of the father and son demonstrate a commitment to employees and veterans that remains ongoing within the enterprise. In 1938, Jay Hormel started a profit-sharing program, which last year distributed $17.9 million to eligible hourly and salaried employees. Beginning with the Spanish-American War of 1898, George Hormel vowed to re-employ all returning soldiers who worked at the company previously. Hormel Foods continues its support of military personnel through employee assistance programs and initiatives such as Operation Gratitude and Tables of Honor.


“Since the beginning, we’ve believed that social responsibility is more than giving away a percentage of our profits at the end of the year,” said James P. Snee, chief executive officer of Hormel Foods Corp. “While we are committed to many worthy causes, including cancer research and fighting childhood hunger, it is our core business — efficiently producing delicious food for the world’s growing population — of which we are most proud.”

Left: Jay C. Hormel Right: George A. Hormel

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100 Years

By John Unrein

May 2021

100
Years

For a century, we celebrate the inspiring stories of retail bakeries.

Courtesy of RBA

Our story is your story. During tough times and those filled with prosperity, the retail baking industry has advanced through the determination of family businesses dedicated to knowledge of their craft and solid work ethic. We feed the world — and our families — with a smile. And is there really any greater joy than that?


Your history is our history. And the following are just a few milestones of the many that our businesses have encountered during the past century. Our hope is that these stories remind us all how much our industry matters and how family has kept us together, growing stronger every year.

 

In the spring of 1918, a movement is started to organize retail bakers into a national body, and on July 16, in Chicago, a temporary organization is created. Eugene Lipp of Chicago becomes the president pro tem. That same year Dunwoody Institute launches its baking program, which eventually leads to the establishment of the American Institute of Baking and attracts future bakers like the Entenmann brothers to Minneapolis for the next 80 years. A year later, in 1919, the Retail Bakers of America (RBA) holds the association’s first annual convention Jan. 27-29 at the Sherman Hotel in Chicago. The convention was scheduled for October 1918 but was postponed due to the influenza pandemic.


Founded a few years later in 1922, our company, Sosland Publishing, begins its journey as a B2B trade publishing company focused on producing and delivering indispensable content for the industries it serves.  Owned and managed by a family of editors and publishers, Sosland Publishing’s first 50 years were dedicated exclusively to the grain, flour milling and baking industries. In recent decades, the company has broadened its reach deeper into the food processing industry (including meat and poultry processing), as well as into international grain and feed handling and processing, and most recently, pet food processing and the supermarket perimeter.


In 1921, initially working at Stetson Hat Company, the Termini Brothers (pictured on the first cover of bake’s current, award-winning design) saved enough money to open a humble kitchen and storefront. Termini Brothers Bakery was born in Philadelphia. Within two years, Termini Brothers became the go-to spot for wedding cakes, allowing the brothers to purchase their first delivery truck.


Seventeen years after opening their small storefront, the brothers saved enough money to move across the street to a larger location – where Termini Brothers Bakery currently stands today. Vincent Termini Sr. is born in that same year. As WWII unfolded, the demand for Termini Brothers fruit cakes being shipped overseas to the frontline is insatiable, adding further to the legacy and reputation of the bakery.

Courtesy of Termini Bros.

Rising in Middle America

In Chicago, Luke Carl recalls that when his wife’s great grandfather, Joseph Dinkel, came to Chicago in the early 1900s, he brought with him remarkable baking skills and recipes from a long line of master bakers in southern Bavaria, Germany. He was able to open a small bakeshop in 1922 with the help of his wife, Antonie. For the first 10 years, it was Joseph baking in the back of the shop and Antonie selling. Joseph’s delicious baked foods quickly became very popular throughout the city.


In 1932, as the popularity of Dinkel’s baked foods grew, Joseph and Antonie expanded the current location. It was about this time that their son, Norman Dinkel, Sr., came into the business and continued to build the quality reputation of the business. In the early 1970s, Norman Jr. took over the helm of the bakery, thus embarking on the third generation of the business. As word spread of the bakery’s quality products, demand for Dinkel’s baked goods began to come in from loyal customers across the country (and even overseas).


“This is why I am proud to be a part of the Dinkel’s tradition (now in its fourth generation) and am so proud to pass on this love of tradition to my children,” says Luke Karl.


Started in 1911 by John C. Roeser Sr., Roeser’s Bakery is the oldest family-owned bakery still in the same location in Chicago. The bakery is now in its fourth generation, with John C. Roeser IV leading the way. Roeser’s was one of the first bakeries in the city to install a freezer in the store and in the shop. In 1946, John Jr. installed the neon sign that still hangs outside today.

 

When the bakery was remodeled in 1953, it was the first all-Formica store front in a retail bakery. In 1965, Roeser’s became the first bakery with an air conditioned shop in Chicago, which helped maintain the quality of Roeser’s now famous whipped cream cakes on those hot summer days.

Porto’s Bakery

Ohio happenings

In 1928, the same year that Otto Frederick Rohwedder’s loaf-at-a-time bread slicing machine ushers in the beginning of packaged sliced bread, Joe and Daisie Busken open Busken Bakery in Cincinnati. Joe borrowed $500 (a small fortune at the time) from a relative with a failed cigar box company, put an oven in the back of the store, and began to sell bread, breakfast sweets and cookies. Joe and Daisie’s grandson Page Busken would serve as RBA president from 1981 to 1983. Joe Busken Sr. knew a good bit about the challenges of the retail baking business when he opened the first Busken store in the Hyde Park neighborhood. His father, Clem, had run a bakery in Oklahoma City after working as a route salesmen for Fleischmann Yeast Co. In Busken’s early years, Joe would bake all night and sell all day, counting every penny along the way.


Another popular bakery in Cincinnati, Servatii Pastry Shop & Deli, grew to 12 stores throughout the tri-state region and numerous wholesale customers. The Gottenbusch family has been preparing fresh baked goods since the 1800s. Great grandfather George started out in Muenster, Germany, driving a horse-drawn wagon door to door selling his fresh baked goods. His son, George, attended Germany’s most recognizable baking school and received his “Konditor Meister” status as Master Pastry Chef. By the early ‘50s, George opened Café Servatii, next to St. Servatii Church — named after an Italian saint — on Servatii Platz, in the heart of Muenster. His son Wilhelm followed in his footsteps. He earned his Master Status, traveled the world, working in Australia, Poland and on an international freighter before settling in Cincinnati.

Busken Bakery

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Texas twists

Poland was the home country of the Jucker family, which now operates Three Brothers Bakery in Houston. Three Brothers continues to be owned and managed by members of the Jucker family. Sigmund’s son, Robert, a fifth-generation baker, now runs the business along with his wife, Janice.

 “The most important thing about our family is we are a family of survivors,” Janice Jucker says. As a tribute to the history of the family bakery, the Jucker family uses old wooden worktables as tabletops. Robert Jucker explains that you can still see some deep grooves in some of the wooden tabletops where bakers kneaded the dough for so many years. “It’s a unique way to celebrate something that we have had in our family.”


One year ago, the Houston bakery recognized its 71st anniversary with a special day at their Braeswood location with cookies for 71 cents each. Additionally, the bakery created Mitzvah Funds and encouraged its loyal following to donate $7.10 to commemorate the special day. Mitzvah is Hebrew for Good Deed. After receiving some media attention for its struggles to survive yet another disaster, people began sending the bakery money to use to bake for others in need.

Honoring family

On the West Coast, Porto’s Bakery remains a successful family business run by the Porto family. The bakery was founded in 1960 by Rosa, who passed away in December 2019, and her husband Raul Porto Sr. Porto’s Bakery traces its roots to Manzanillo, Cuba, where Rosa worked as a home economics teacher before she began to sell cakes from the family home.

 
Raul Porto, owner of Porto’s, which is based in Los Angeles, traces his family bakery’s biggest move to 2003 when they expanded Glendale to include a cafe and coffee bar. “That was the moment that, all of a sudden, sales blew up,” Porto told attendees during the latest International Baking Industry Exposition (IBIE). “Our food business doubled, and our pastry increased 20%. The mixing of bakery and food was the biggest thing we ever did.”

Courtesy of RBA